城市介绍
Arnun
Although a relatively small town, Arnun has an impressive sight: Beaufort Castle, which sits atop a 1,000-ft/305-m cliff overlooking the Litani River. Many conquerors have walked along the battlements of this Crusader castle. However, the castle was damaged during the civil war. Because it lies in southern Lebanon, in an area formerly occupied by Israel, we recommend that travelers check on the current situation before traveling there. 40 mi/65 km south of Beirut.
Baalbek
Baalbek, in the northern Bekaa Valley, has the most impressive classical ruins in Lebanon, and it's one of the most important Roman sites in the Middle East.
Although the town predates Roman times, little is left of the Phoenician city of Baal or the subsequent Greek city of Heliopolis. The architectural attractions left standing are entirely of Roman design, built in the first century AD. Some historians attribute the enormous scale and rich detail of the buildings to religious rivalry: Christianity was growing in popularity, and the Romans wanted to encourage the local population to stick with pagan worship.
You'll enter the complex through the Propylaea, a colonnaded entrance, and then proceed through a hexagonal court to the Great Court with its two altars where sacrifices took place. Straight ahead, up the wide set of stairs, is what remains of the Temple of Jupiter. Only six of the original 54 columns still stand, but these give you an idea of the incredible height of the building. The columns are said to be the largest in the world.
Though smaller than the Temple of Jupiter, the nearby Temple of Bacchus is a wonderfully preserved architectural beauty. Take your time walking around its portico, with its intricately carved stone. From this position you have a good view of the huge stone blocks that formed the foundation for the Temple of Jupiter - some of the blocks are believed to weigh more than 1,000 tons. Finally, enter the Temple of Bacchus at its eastern end, walking up the flight of stairs and through the ornate doorway. Peer up at the keystone, which was a popular subject for sketch-happy 18th-century European travelers. Their drawings show the stone hanging perilously low, but it seems to have been reset with modern mortar.
There are some modern cultural attractions as well, the most important being the renowned Baalbek International Music Festival in July or August. Baalbek is a good day trip from Beirut. Allow at least a half-day (not including travel time) for this impressive site. 55 mi/85 km northeast of Beirut.
Bcharre
This splendid mountain resort is perched above the eastern end of the beautiful Kadisha Gorge. The town's red-tiled roofs, olive groves and mountain scenery remind us of a Greek village - or a half-dozen other scenic spots along the eastern Mediterranean. Although it's popular both as a cool summer retreat for coastal dwellers and a winter base for snow skiers, Bcharre can seem downright dead in the off-season. Sightseeing options are limited to several churches and the Gibran Museum, which pays tribute to Kahlil Gibran, Lebanon's most famous author and Bcharre's native son. Bcharre is a convenient base for visiting the Cedars of Lebanon or hiking in the 30-mi-/50-km-long valley below. Note that the road leading east from Bcharre over the mountains into the Bekaa Valley (and to Baalbek) is open only during summer. 40 mi/65 km northeast of Beirut.
Beirut
Barely noticed amid the ongoing hostilities in the Middle East, the Lebanese have been busy rebuilding their capital since peace returned to the embattled city more than a decade ago. Though the scars from years of civil war remain, life has returned to downtown Beirut. The former "Pearl of the Middle East" is once again an exquisite experience: A beguiling composition of cultures and faiths, perched on a breathtaking sweep of Mediterranean coastline. In all, it's now one of the most cosmopolitan and safest cities in the Middle East.
Beiteddine
The Palace of Beiteddine is one of the most popular day trips from Beirut. (The drive through the beautiful Chouf Mountains is an added bonus.) The palace, completed in the early 1800s, is the product of Italian architects and Levantine artisans. Touring the complex - rooms and buildings connected by terraces and courtyards - can be a bit disorienting, though: You're never quite sure where you have or haven't been. But don't give up until you've seen the baths, the kitchens, the harem, the reception room and the nicely landscaped gardens. There are several museums and exhibitions on-site, including the Ethnographic Museum, the Joumblatt Memorial Exhibit (honoring the late Druze leader) and a nice collection of Byzantine mosaics displayed in the former stables. An international festival is held at the palace every summer in July or August.
On your way to or from Beiteddine, you can stop in Deir al-Qamar, a scenic town with well-preserved historical buildings. You'll also, no doubt, notice Castle Mousa along the way. It was built by a man with affection for things medieval. It belongs in a category with Bavaria's Neuschwanstein and Disneyland's castle, but trust us, it's even less authentic. Beiteddine is 30 mi/45 km southeast of Beirut.
Cedars Of Lebanon
Today, a cedar tree graces Lebanon's flag, but few of the fabled trees remain. If you want to see them, it will require some effort on your part. The best place to get a look at the famous trees is at the grove on Mount Makmal (about 5 mi/10 km east of Bcharre). At 6,000 ft/1,800 m above sea level (take along a sweater), a cluster of large old cedars survives. There are two entrances to the park: one off the main road, among the souvenir stands, and another farther up the road on the way to the ski resort. In the midst of the trees is an unusual piece of sculpture: A French artist, who's involved in the campaign to protect and plant cedars, carved a sculpture out of the trunk of a dead tree rather than let it be chopped down. Also, see if you can pick out the two trees called Adam and Eve - their trunks are joined at the "hip." Mount Makmal is 45 mi/75 km northeast of Beirut.
Ehden
This village in the Mount Lebanon range is a gateway to some of the best scenery in the country. Located near the Kadisha Gorge, Ehden is a good base for visiting the Horsh Ehden Forest Nature Reserve, which protects native flora and fauna. There are several churches and monuments in the town, but nature viewing and hiking are the biggest draws. 60 mi/100 km northeast of Beirut.
Jbail
Although other cities may claim to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world, Jbail, or Byblos, has the goods to back its claim. And visitors will be happy to discover that the evidence (spanning approximately 6,000 years) is located in a relatively compact area.
The Byblos Archaeological Site, as it's officially called, has a mind-boggling inventory, including a Crusader castle and the ruins of a Persian castle, Amorite temples, a Greek well, a Roman theater and a necropolis containing the tomb of King Hiram. (His sarcophagus, as well as many other artifacts unearthed in Jbail, is on display in Beirut's National Museum.) The archaeological site also has some remains from the Bronze Age, though to the untrained eye they look like little more than crushed stones.
In the modern - that is, medieval - center of Jbail you'll find the Romanesque-style Church of St. John the Baptist. The souk is located nearby, but it's a bit too clean and airy to be called authentic. You're more likely to buy jeans or shoes there than traditional Lebanese crafts. 22 mi/35km north of Beirut.
Jeita Grotto
The Lebanese love to show visitors this natural wonder, with its many stalagmites and stalactites in a series of caves. In summer, a boat ferries passengers across a subterranean lake, which is the source of Nahr al-Kalb (the Dog River). In the past, concerts for hundreds of listeners have been staged in the grotto, but most visitors will have to settle for a sound-and-light show. 12 mi/20 km north of Beirut.
Jounieh
We're told that Jounieh was a quiet, quaint town until fighting in the capital caused scores of Beirutis to relocate there. The influx of people begot high-rise development, and Beirutis, naturally, brought with them a demand for nightlife. The result: There's not a single undeveloped plot along the highway between Beirut and Jounieh, and the once sedate town is now Lebanon's Monte Carlo, complete with the well-known Casino de Liban.
Jounieh's setting is still one of the most beautiful along the Lebanese coast. For the best view of the crescent-shaped bay, take the steep cable car (telepherique) to Harissa. (The station is in the middle of Jounieh, between the highway and the old coastal road.) At the other end of the cable-car line you transfer to an incline car, which takes you to the lookout point surrounding the shiny, white statue of the Virgin of Lebanon. If you want to go still higher, you can climb the ramp around the statue's base. (The closer you come to her lowered, outstretched hands, the narrower the ramp becomes - and the pushier people get.) The view is spectacular, though, and the virgin, seen from close up, has a sweet, sad charm.
On your way to or from Jounieh you can stop at Nahr al-Kalb (the Dog River) to view inscriptions carved into the river-gorge walls by a long line of conquering armies. Jounieh is 15 mi/20 km north of Beirut.
Sidon
Like most coastal cities in Lebanon, Sidon (Saida in Arabic) was a Phoenician settlement founded around 4000 BC. Its name means "fortified," but this didn't stop a long list of invading armies over the centuries.
An earthquake inflicted heavy damage in 1837, but there's still plenty to see: the picturesque Crusader Sea Castle (on a small island connected to the mainland by a walking bridge), the Great Mosque (originally a Crusader church) and the Frankish-style Castle of St. Louis. Be sure to visit the Khan al-Franj, near the souk. Originally an inn for traveling merchants, it has been restored and now serves as a cultural center. The Temple of Eshmoun is north of town and is one of the best-preserved Phoenician sites in Lebanon. Sidon is 25 mi/40 km south of Beirut.
Tripoli
Lebanon's second-largest city is a bit off the beaten tourist track, but Tripoli merits a day's visit. It has a more distinctively Arab atmosphere than other cities in Lebanon and also includes many Crusader-era and medieval sites. The 12th-century St. Giles Castle (the citadel) and the Grand Mosque with its Lombardy-style bell tower are worth visiting. Many other mosques, madrassahs (theological schools), hamman (bathhouses) and khans (inns) are being restored. Take time to stroll through the souks and don't pass up some of the best pastries in Lebanon at RaF'at Hallab Fils on Rue Tall near Sahet et-Tall, the city's main plaza. 50 mi/80 km north of Beirut.
Tyre
As a Phoenician city, Tyre was so powerful that the Mediterranean Sea was then called the Tyrian Sea. For centuries its walls were deemed impregnable, but today it depends on its status as a UNESCO World Heritage site for protection.
Greek, Roman and Byzantine remains mingle in two archaeological sites open to visitors. One set of excavated ruins is on the old town's southern end - it used to be an island before Alexander the Great built a causeway to it. (Centuries of silt filled in the rest.) About half an hour's walk to the east is the other archaeological site, which includes a Roman necropolis, triumphal arch, aqueduct and the reconstructed Hippodrome (used in the film Ben Hur). 50 mi/80 km south of Beirut.
Zahle
If you want to overnight in the Bekaa Valley (before or after visiting Baalbek), Zahle is a good spot. This resort town is situated in a nice river valley, and it's known as the restaurant and wine capital of Lebanon. At the upper end of the valley are several outdoor restaurants, all of them with long tables draped in white cloths and set for hundreds of guests. The scene seemed to scream "incoming busloads of tourists," but when we were there, we saw only restless waiters milling about, waiting for the influx that perhaps never arrived. Smaller and less touristy restaurants in the center of town also serve the Bekaa Valley's agricultural bounty. After dinner, you can window-shop or stroll around town looking at the nice old villas - there's not much else to do there. 35 mi/55 km northeast of Beirut.
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